Hawks Nursery

The following information may be used as a general guideline for protecting your plants against a typical Southeast Wisconsin Winter.

1. ALL evergreens should get a good watering before the ground freezes. This is particularly important this year. Plants are going into winter with a moisture deficit, they will have problems in Spring unless we help them this Fall.

2. ALBERTA SPRUCE: Spray with Wilt-Pruf, or if you have a history of wind burn, cover entire plant with burlap to protect against winter winds.

1. RHODODENDRONS, HOLLYS should be sprayed with Wilt-Pruf in late Fall, and mulched with a 3-5" layer of peat moss around the base of the plants. In Spring, work that peat moss into the ground around the plants and apply some Soil Sulphur or Copperas. For maximum protection, Rhododendrons and Hollys can be covered with burlap to protect from winter desiccation.

2. BOXWOODS should also be sprayed with Wilt-Pruf and then covered with evergreen boughs or burlap to help protect them from Winter's damaging winds.

Hardware Cloth

The plant is tied in, then a section of hardware cloth is put around the outside and secured with twine to form a cylinder. The base of the cloth is buried in soil or mulch. This protection is put on in late November and removed in mid-April. The plants should be checked through the winter for snowdrifts. If the snow line rises, the hardware cloth can be pulled up to protect more of the plant, if necessary

1. BURNING BUSH (EUONYMUS) CHERRY AND SOME VIBURNUMS: Rabbits love to eat these shrubs. Enclosing the plants with hardware cloth is highly recommend for these types of plants, this will protect them from hungry rodents during the winter months.

1. FRUIT TREES i.e.: Crab trees, Apple, Pear etc. are trees that need to be protected with tree wrap and hardware cloth during the winter, not only from sun scald (cracking) but also rodent and deer damage.

2. SMOOTH BARKED TREES, i.e.: Ash, Maple, Locust etc. need protection of tree wrap over the winter. This is especially important with young trees. This wrapping helps protect the trees against sun scald or frost crack on the trunk. In many cases, this cracking can lead to the death of a young tree. Remove tree wrap in Spring.

Roses in Wisconsin can have a difficult time surviving our winters if not given some proper winter protection. An already healthy rose has a much better chance of surviving a harsh winter. Give each rose one last thorough soaking before you put the hoses away in late Fall. Do not do any cutting back on the roses at this time! Around the middle of October, mound soil around the base of each rose. The mound should be about 8" to 12" high. Do not use the existing soil from around the base of the rose for the mounding. Also, be sure to use soil -- not peat moss or hay. (This mounding material must be a medium that will freeze solid around the base of the rose.)

Around the middle-to-the-end of November is the time to cover the canes of roses for protection from the weather of the winter months. There are a couple of different methods to use in protecting your roses.

The first, and most commonly used method, is to use a rose cone (Fiber are superior to Styrofoam if you are getting new cones). First, tie the canes of the rose together using twine or nylon. Then, cut off the tops of the canes that will not fit "comfortably" under the cone. Put the cone over the rose, and make sure there are ventilation holes (at least 3) around the top of the cone. Put a brick or heavy stone on the top of the cone, and push soil around the base of the cone to hold it down. This will prevent it from blowing away.

Another method is to use burlap or hardware cloth (tightly-meshed chicken wire.) Instead of the cone, wrap the burlap, about three layers thick, around the entire plant and secure with twine. If using hardware cloth, simply enclose the wire around each rose making sure it is not rubbing on any of the rose canes, and fill the inside with leaves. Oak leaves are reputed to work the best.

These procedures are only necessary with roses that are not hardy for our winters, such as Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas, Minis, English, and ‘non-hardy' Climbers. The method to protect ‘non-hardy' Climbers is very simple. They, too, need the soil mounded around the base in October. Once again, do not do any cutting back at this time. Leave the canes attached to the trellis or fence that they are climbing on. Place burlap, about 3 layers thick, around the rose, covering as much as you can.

SPRING CARE for ROSES: If you used a rose cone for winter protection, try to remove it on a warmer day when the temperature has begun to rise above 45 degrees. Be sure to put it back on again at night - and continue this process until night time temperatures stay above 45 to 50 degrees. Once it is warm enough to remove the cones for good, carefully wash away the soil around the base. Be certain that the danger of the last frost has passed.

When the buds begin to swell, remove any damaged or dead canes. Also, any crossed or rubbing branches should be removed. Make all these cuts at an angle, leaving a 1/4" of cane between the bud and cut. Do not cut the entire plant to the ground. When you have finished, the rose bush should have 3 to 5 healthy canes that are 12" to 15 " high. This should be done on Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas, and English Roses.

GROUND COVERS: Some types of ground covers need to be covered for the first couple of winters, until they become established. Evergreen boughs are fine for this.

"NEWLY" PLANTED PERENNIALS: Cover new perennials with evergreen boughs to protect for the first year or so. This helps protect plants from any heaving, thawing and crown burn off.